FISH! THERE, SHE SAID IT!

Gina Mallet, National Post

Published: Saturday, February 23, 2008

ZEE GRILL & OYSTER BAR

641 Mt. Pleasant Rd. 416-484-6428

I decide today that I will go out and eat a fish. If only I'd known. Eating fish is a political act.

The food cops want me to eat fish, they allege Omega-3s in fish will prevent a heart attack. So I start looking for a fine fish place. But before I can make a reservation, I learn that not only is the great bluefin tuna laced with mercury, but that all fish have some degree of mercury in them. As I'm neither pregnant nor decrepit, the mercury may not have much effect, and in any case, I think tuna's the Wagyu of the oceans, a pink gelatinous lump

But now the Harvard School of Public Health, the top cop, says I must even eat mercury-laced fish, otherwise I might have a heart attack.

OK. Now to find a fish I want to eat.

Escolar! It's described as the foie gras of the sea, rich and buttery. I ignore its mercury content, but uh oh, Escolar has, er, GI issues, and is banned from polite dining (for a rather too detailed back story on a recent case of Escolaritis, visit radaronline.com).

My fish sage, Rick at Mike's in the St. Lawrence Market, says customers love the fish but he doesn't sell it because of the occasional bad reaction. It is safer to eat small amounts, which is why I see it on sushi menus disguised as butter fish or white tuna, a.k.a. albacore. What's this? Here am I worrying about Omega-3, mercury and Escolaritis but I don't know what fish is which fish any more. Actually, I've never known -- because anyone can name a fish, and everyone does. You buy Boston bluefish and you're getting scrod, buy haddock and you're getting pollock. There are 26 fish called sea bass.

I don't want to, personally, eat the last of a species, so I log on to Toronto's Endangered Fish Alliance, which lists the status of endangered fish: Chilean Sea Bass (actually Patagonian toothfish), orange roughy (actually slimehead), the usual suspects, but -- whoa!--I don't believe scallops and halibut are endangered! I forgot to check the advocacy group's political leanings. Blue Ocean Institute, on the other hand, isn't so extremist and offers a link so I can text for up-to-date information when confronted by a doubtful fish at the counter or in a restaurant.

Next worry: Should I eat fish at all? It's certainly not fresh or local. Flying fish all over the world is tearing a vast hole in the ozone over the North Pole. News flash: The food-miles fallacy has imploded -- it's now how you grow food that wipes out polar bears.

It's even difficult selecting a fish place. The oysters in an oyster bar may be grand but oyster bars tend toward ruggerscrum buzz. A couple of years ago, I was traumatized by the decor of Cfood, a most amusing fish shack where a very angry Siamese fighting fish in a vase watched me down a chunk of yellowfin tuna with murder in his eyes.

I finally select Zee Grill, the longest-running seafood place in the city. Any place kept going by word of mouth must be good. I love its website, which gives a list of local fish suppliers, and I am reassured by the appearance of the chef and co-owner Jac Eckhardt -- he looks calm. If I'm tuckered out trying to be green for a single night, what must it be like for the chef? Who knows what might happen if eco-warriors hear he's hustling monkfish?

It's more difficult to enlist an enthusiastic fish eater to come with me. First thing the unregenerate carnivore says is, "Do I have to eat fish? I see they have steak frites."

Luckily, Zee Grill is full of negative ions. I feel better the moment I enter this friendly, unpretentious local place, comfortingly dark with cozy lighting. While it's crowded, the service is prompt and soon we're sampling a simple, clean-tasting clam-and-corn chowder and Sicilian-style grilled calamari with tomato salsa and cape gooseberries, which has the tender, melting consistency of an old worn Michelin.

Around me, everyone seems to be eating shellfish, delectable-looking mini lobster sandwiches that come with witlof -- the proper name for Belgian endive. Diver scallops come with mushroom-turnip ravioli, sun-choke puree and caviar. Like the sound of both. But I've committed us to ocean-going fish because they have more Omega-3 in them.

Now this is interesting: Oceangoing fish may be better for us but obviously the public prefer shellfish because there are only three kinds of fish on offer (incidentally, other restaurants also have short fish menus, although fish markets sell a variety of fish)

We skip ahi tuna (yellowfin to you) as too Hawaii. Instead, the carnivore goes for a very fancy fish and chips: panko-crusted halibut with fries and remoulade sauce, with only a single blip -- "What is panko?" -- until he tastes the crunchy Japanese bread-crumbs. He cleans his plate with a big smile. Fish isn't so bad after all, and think of the Omega-3s coursing through his arteries. The poached wild striped seabass is a classic, irreproachable with a dab of shiitake Dijon-lemon sauce and al dente beans and carrots. I swear I feel thinner as I eat it. I can see the food cops smiling with approval. So I can now spoil myself with creme caramel, a dessert I wish I saw more often.

No wheelchair access. Noise: good to moderate. Dinner for two, food plus taxes: $110.



REVIEW IN THE 2007 RESTAURANT GUIDE

Uptown old-timers probably remember this spot as Phebe’s (the name still evident on the façade), a neighbourhoody destination with skilfully prepared food. Today’s loyal regulars have a seafood gem, a grill and oyster bar whose creations are deft, subtle and imaginative. The long bar entices folks up for raw bivalves and shoulder-to-shoulder exchange, and the 50-some bottles on an evolving wine list hit all world bases in a mostly approachable price range. Barely crumbed calamari ($11) come off the grill as the tenderest, smallest casings and arms, their fresh tomato and jalapeño salsa highly chilied. Shells splayed open, manila and cherrystone clams are the glamorous centrepiece for a rich, slightly overthickened chowder studded with fresh corn kernels ($8). Sea scallops ($26), sliced and seared, play off their sweetness against a bright creamed saffron sauce sprinkled with bits of Serrano ham, ricotta gnocchi and spinach hash, with coarsely chopped leeks. Jamaican (spicy sausage bits) paella ($25) doesn’t quite work—the red pepper and tomato broth makes chicken soup out of rice—in spite of carefully timed shrimp, clams, mussels, calamari and chicken. The pressed richness of homemade ganache-topped flourless chocolate cake ($9) almost turns it into a moist chocolate bar. Professional service. Corkage $25.

CHEF: JAC ECKHARDT / DINNER FOR TWO WINE, TIP AND TAXES INCLUDED $155

REVIEW IN THE FEBRUARY 2005 ISSUE OF "THE NORTH TORONTO POST"

TITLE OF REVIEW "SHELLING OUT FOR QUALITY FISH"

This Joint Is Smoking - BY SHANA FRIEDMAN

Despite the growing number of seafood dishes being offered at our favorite local bistros,if it is exceptional seafood you are craving, only a true seafood restaurant will do. One of the city's finest, in business for more than 23 years, is Phebe's Zee Grill, located on the bustling Mt. Pleasant Road strip a few blocks south of Eglinton Avenue. The small, open kitchen is located at the front of the room, close to the entrance. The dining area is all exposed brick walls, glazed Mexican floor tiles, wooden tables and upholstered banquettes. Low lighting and votive candles provide requisite ambience. With the benefit of a reservation this midweek evening, we are escorted to a corner banquette, perfect for two, and begin to peruse the carte. The menu is varied, featuring seafood, of course, with an emphasis on shellfish. Rack of lamb, steak frites (both at $29.95) or breast of chicken ($18.50) are available for dining partners of fish lovers. There is an impressive choice of oysters available on the half shell ($2.45 to $3.95 each) including Malpeque, Kumamoto, Beau Soleil, Watch Hill, Quonset, Blue Point, Prudence Choice, Newport Cup and others depending on what is in season, and fresh fish is available as daily specials. The crab cakes tempt to start, but I opt for the steamed P.E.I. Mussels ($11.95 a pound) on the advice of our server. Offered in a choice of white wine, Java curry, tomato or spicy cream sauce. I choose the latter and am not disappointed. The mollusk are plentiful, tender and sweet. The cream sauce is a nice change from the usual tomato broth and is worthy of bread dipping. Respectable frites (for an additional $5.95), served in a paper cone accompany. My companion chooses the Texas BBQ Shrimp ($9.95). Artfully arranged atop miniature corn cakes topped with guacamole, they are grilled to perfection, nestled in a spicy mango salsa and crowned with zesty mole sauce. The cajun spiced ahi tuna ($26.50) is an absolute must. Chef and owner Jac Eckhardt's signature dish is spectacular, both in flavor and presentation. A generous loin cut of oh-so-tender sashimi grade yellowfin tuna is crusted with peppery spice blend a quick seared, preserving a succulent raw centre. The tuna is drizzled with soy an wasabi sauce, and slices are fanned on a bed of steamed baby bok choi. It is flanked by a slaw of julienne daikon radish and carrot, as well as a spicy relish of diced fresh mango, and topped with two spears of asparagus, or "mang tai" wrapped in pastry and deep fried. Penne with lobster sauce ($17.95} is pasta tossed in a rich tomato cream sauce. It is resplendent with diced fresh lobster and topped with a spray of delicate enoki mushrooms. Should you have room, desserts are prepared in house and well worth the calories. The creme Caramel ($6.95) is silky and rich and just sweet enough. The lemon meringue tower ($8.95) is scoops of lemon ice-cream piled high between thin meringue cookies and garnished with crème anglaise and raspberry coulis. Twenty three years after opening, it is the quality and consistency of Chef Eckhardt's fare that keep people coming back to Zee Grill. He changes his menu seasonally and uses only the freshest ingredients. His wait staff is friendly and attentive. What more can you ask for?


PROFILE BY TORONTOPLUS.CA

PART EASTERN SEABOARD CLAM SHACK AND SHUCK HOUSE PART WEST COAST BOUTIQUE EATERY – complete with boutique California food.

Toronto’s Longest Running Seafood Restaurant
In what can only be described as Rosedale North, Zee Grill has been wowing seafood lovers Toronto wide. One of Toronto’s longest – if not the longest – standing seafood restaurants and grills, Zee Grill has had ample time since first opening in 1981 to perfect its craft. Zee’s is part eastern seaboard clam shack and shuck house, and part west coast boutique eatery. Complete with boutique California food presentation and prices to match, you certainly won’t leave Zee Grill with a heavy wallet, but that doesn’t mean you will not be clamouring for more. You might even book your next visit while on the way out the door.

Maritime Tradition and West Coast Cool
With a menu steeped in maritime tradition, then dredged through a blend of Rosedale boutique chic and west coast culinary fusion, Zee Grill focuses on excellence when presenting their menu. Lobster, crab, oyster, clams, mussels, shrimp and fish are all airlifted fresh. Then they are all presented on the menu in a variety of approaches. The oysters are approached best, of course, at Zee Grill’s chilled oyster bar, where you’ll find a fresh daily selection of whatever is available and in season.

Covered Patio a Great Summer Refuge
With sides of green salads and an a la carte, almost anything makes Zee Grill’s covered patio a great place to grab a nibble. Chat over a bottle of one of their many choices of wine with a friend on a hot summer’s day if you’re not looking to have a full meal.